Cathedrals and Tapas

We all slept late in Leon. I had planned from the beginning to spend an extra day there. It is the largest city along the camino and with my flexible travel schedule I wanted time to appreciate it.

Marc wasn't sure if he wanted to stay or move on. After such a short walk the day before we didn't really need the physical rest. In the end he decided he would stay, but Simon headed out around lunchtime. We stayed with him walking through the city and then said our goodbyes. It seemed by this time that fate had really brought the three of us together, so we weren't worried about not seeing each other again.

After Simon left Marc and I talked about how different it was walking together versus walking alone. We both agreed that we should probably try walking alone again to be able to meet other pilgrims and reflect in different ways.
We spent the afternoon together wandering Leon. The two of us ended up in a cool bar that had tapas that looked like a bird's nest with an egg inside. It was so realistic I just took a picture and didn't eat it. There's nothing very appetizing about eating a bird's home and baby.
The cathedral in Leon was my favorite of all the churches we passed along the way. Whether lit up at night or shining white in the sun it remained awe inspiring.  Though I appreciated it so much from the outside I didn't feel the need to pay the fee to see the inside. Later, during my month living with a Spanish family I would learn about their frustrations with the catholic church. The economic crisis was in full swing, everyone had jobless friends and family, yet the church looked like it was prospering as a tourist trap for those who want to see gold statues and stained glass windows.
Still, these cathedrals are historic and architectural landmarks that bring a lot of beauty to the world.
That night, Marc and I exchanged email addresses in case I decided to get up early and go on alone. We were at the stage in our friendship where we knew we were more than just pilgrim buddies. After the camino ended I was sure we'd continue to keep in touch in some way.

Seven Kilometers to Leon

The following day we had only seven kilometers to walk before we reached one of the largest cities along the way, Leon. Simon’s condition was much improved so the three of us could walk together without going too slow.  The kilometers going into a city usually felt the longest. Walking on pavement hurt my feet and knees and the outskirts were always more grimy than interesting. 

However, seven kilometers was a marvelously short day and it was nice to be able to take our time and revel in the three of us walking together again. The two hostels mentioned in the German guidebook Marc and Simon used were closed. Thankfully, we found a great one near a Mcdonalds. The three of us enjoyed a fast food lunch as a big city indulgence. 

The rest of the afternoon was a normal one for the camino. We showered, relaxed, and did laundry. As I waited for the laundry I talked with a gentleman from England. He had done the camino with his daughter. He told me proudly how she’s a runner and the walking wasn’t enough for her, so she’d take a run every afternoon after checking into a hostel.  I felt so lazy hearing that after my many afternoons of siestas and long showers. I also felt that this woman was possibly crazy for running 10 miles after walking 20.

It was great to meet another pilgrim. I was wondering if walking with my two closest friends would mean giving up meeting new people and hearing their stories. The new experiences were exciting to me, but I wasn’t sure I wanted to stop walking with Simon and Marc.

It was well into September, but the air was still warm and the daylight long. That evening we bought bread and cheese from a grocery store and ate it on the steps of an ancient building.  We people watched comfortably as dusk turned to night and then roamed the city center to sightsee a bit. The cathedral in Leon was quite impressive, especially lit up in the darkness. 

Reaching Leon meant most of our journey was over. Gone were the days when we might doubt that we would make it. The only question now was what adventures would we have before finally reaching Santiago de Compostela.